The Bangkok restaurant hype machine took hold of Appia shortly after it opened in February of this year and the raves about the food were mostly loud and clearly positive. A recent visit of ours was highly anticipated after reading about this restaurant that was featuring Roman food — something unique in Sukhumvit — and also hearing from several knowledgeable food people  about the quality here.
However, we found upon closer inspection that Appia is, based on our one visit mind you, similar to many area restaurants. Some things are done properly and others are not. We liked the overall concept of the menu and the decor was inviting and interesting but what ended up on the plate wasn’t always  the same.
The sardines to the right were boring and slightly overcooked, the flank steak to the left (under the mound of greens) was expensive, although tasty, and the cioppino was less a stew than a pile of seafood with a sauce thrown over it and consisted mostly of two large hunks of fish that were overcooked.
On the bright side, the mozzarella to the left was very nice, the chicken liver crostino was delicious (and a large portion for only 150 baht) and the pastas were all well done although the insistence of the chef in making them very al dente is rather puzzling.
All in all it was a bit disappointing, probably more so because of our over hyped anticipation. Appia has its high points as well as low and therefore it fits in with most of the restaurants in Sukhumvit. Perhaps we didn’t order the dishes that really shine here but it would be nice to go to a restaurant and order anything off the menu and have it make us sit up and take notice. The potential for that appears to be here but some fine tuning is still apparently needed to achieve this level.
Appia, Soi 31, 02-262-2057.